Fernandez & Wells

I'm on a mission to sell London. A good friend recently moved back to the UK from Melbourne and is probably (hopefully!) going to move to London once she's settled. In the meantime I am, totally selflessly, running a campaign to show her the very best of London, starting yesterday with a sunny day of contemporary art galleries and damn good coffee in Soho.

The Beak Street Fernandez & Wells has been one of my firm favourites since it opened, and now has the Suzy stamp of approval too. We arrived with serendipitous timing, just as two seats opened by the window, great for people watching. Note: must try harder not to giggle when people fall off the pavement, windows are two-way after all.

We both loved their beautifully poured stumpies (their version of a flat white), and my friend even picked up shades of the famous Aussie cafe relaxed atmosphere. Praise indeed. I'm hoping that will work as an extra convincer.

My cheese toastie was totally delicious and deserves a special mention - I wouldn't normally rave about a sandwich but the cheese and sourdough bread were both great quality and the addition of finely chopped leek and red onion cut through the richness brilliantly.

Another selling point for F&W - a new branch of Aesop, the cult Australian skincare brand, has just opened around the corner. My friend is now totally sold on their high quality botanical products, and the shop almost persuaded me to part with my Oil of Olay. Almost but not quite - my mother has used it for 40 years, and still looks ten years younger than she really is. That's good enough for me!

Next stop on the Sell London mission: a visit to the carefully selected coffees at St. ALi in Clerkenwell, a Melbourne import which should close the deal. Wish me luck!

Sweet dreams are made of this

Bom dia! I returned from Lisbon this week, fat but happy. As I'm snowed in this morning along with the rest of London, I thought I'd share one of my highlights from the trip with you.

I have to admit that I was attracted to Portugal in order to try those delicate little custard tarts called pastéis de nata, a speciality in Lisbon. I've had some before which were very tasty, but surely they'd be even better in their spiritual home?

The pastéis are said to have originated from the Hieronymite monastery in Belém in the 1830s, when the monks fell on hard hard times after being expelled. The tarts soon began to be made to the same recipe in an adjoining building, which continues today as the Pastéis de Belém cafe on the Rua de Belém, using the same recipe from 1837. I was told that today only two people know the closely guarded recipe. All of which means that eating there counts as culture and not gluttony, which means it's a guilt-free trip. Happy days.

The cafe itself is quite beautiful, tiled in the traditional blue and white azulejo style. It's a popular spot with visitors and locals alike - even in January there was a decent queue waiting for a batch to appear.

The pastéis are served warm from the oven so the flaky pastry is crisp and the custard is only gently set and seductively creamy. Each tart has a dash of heady vanilla, which can either be complemented with a dash of powdered sugar or cinnamon from the shakers provided, or enjoyed alone. There is an art to achieving the right amount of caramelisation both on the top and underneath which they are very aware of - I took a walk past the open kitchen and saw a woman carefully inspecting the bottom of each pastéis. Those that did not please her discerning eye were tossed aside. They still looked delicious to me...

A fine romance

Yesterday, I fell in love in Paris. No, not with a dashing Gallic man with flashing eyes and tousled locks. Of course I fell for the food, namely some stand-out fabulous patisserie.

I was in Paris for a meeting (a one-off moment of glamour in my otherwise London-based life!) which catered for our lunch from "a little bakery down the road". Of course when you work in Paris it is normal to have an historic patisserie next door, naturellement? And so we were treated to simply the most incredible spread of charlottes, macarons, tarts, mille feuille and other sweet concoctions that I've ever seen, courtesy of Pâtisserie Stohrer on Rue Montorgueil.

Since it doesn't do to eat more than one dessert at a work meeting (honestly, it broke my heart) I made my choice carefully: just one, but my god it was delicious. A crisp, buttery pastry tart base filled with pistachio mousse and topped with fat, glistening strawberries. It makes my mouth water even now to think about it.

If you're ever in Paris, I urge you to seek out this place. Go with an empty stomach and leave a few pounds heavier but very, very content.

___________________________________

Stohrer - pâtissier traiteur
Magasin au 51 rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris
Open 7 days a week, 7:30am to 8:30pm

Jamie Oliver's Recipease: Knife skills

I'm not always the most coordinated person in the kitchen - I had a close call last month which involved the tip of my nail, a small amount of blood and a lot of cursing. So when a charming man asked if I would go with him for training in knife skills, of course I said yes.

Clapham is pretty close to my neck of the woods in South London and has one of the two Recipease Kitchen and Food shops run by Jamie Oliver in the UK. The other is in my home town of Brighton, which I took as a geographical hint to book myself in.

We arrived - literally - under a dark cloud. The heavens opened on the journey over and having made the rather fatal decision to go on a motorbike we were both completely soaked by the time we got there. But still smiling. Thankfully the store was warm and inviting, with Mr Oliver's tasteful kitchen nicknacks and recipe books scattered around deli-style foods for sale.

Our teacher was very patient as she showed our small group the basics about selecting knives and sharpening, then how to chop, slice and dice the various ingredients for the Thai prawn and mango salads which we later ate. I love that I can now correctly slice an onion - it's all about perfecting the strange hand claw that chefs use to safely slide their knuckles along the chopping surface. I'm not speedy yet, but soon...

My top tip for home cooks: use a teaspoon to scrape the papery skin from ginger, retaining all the juices that sit close to the surface, and also to remove the seeds from fresh chillies. I'm afraid the complexities of the claw cannot be shared here, you will have to discover that one for yourself.

Recipease
Clapham Junction
Battersea
48-50 St Johns Road
SW11 1PR

Nopi

What do you get the girl who already has two of everything for her birthday?

Well if she's a huge fan of Yotam Ottolenghi, you take her to Nopi for a glammed up lunch.  If you are one of the few remaining people who hasn't yet heard of the lovely Mr O, he is currently the thinking vegetarian's favourite bit of chef. His recent appearance on Masterchef almost caused one of the semi-finalists to have an accident on national telly as she stared, agog and open mouthed, as he entered the room.

The man himself was present (I'm told he often is), slinking his way around the restaurant in a green cashmere sweater and keeping a reassuring eye on the kitchen. There is a genuinely lovely buzz about the place, perhaps partly due to the elegant, unpretentious decor which goes for a modern Middle-Eastern luxe vibe; blingy but not tacky.

We shared a selection from across the menu, of which the burrata with blood orange and coriander seeds (above) and softshell crab with green tea noodles and ponzu were the stand out favourites. If you go for pudding, my chocolate mousse with peanut brittle, mace and crème fraiche was a dense, intense chocolate lovers dream, but quite exhausted me in the process of eating it. My tablemate's doughnuts with plum wine anglaise, berry compote (above, note the tight grip on the plate..!) slipped down a treat. I hope she doesn't mind me recalling that some small moans of pleasure escaped as she ate.

Two of our group have already sworn to make a bi-monthly pilgrimage to Nopi. My wallet says no, but luckily my stomach usually makes the decisions.

Warm scones and nipple tassles

It's all a bit gloomy here.

I was covered in a fine film of drizzle on my run back from the park (ok, the limp back) at the weekend. This time of year needs some serious cheering up to raise my spirits until summer peeks over the horizon again.

Enter Afternoon Tease at Volupté. I'm rather new to the burlesque scene in London so the very notion of having afternoon tea against a cabaret backdrop was only revealed to me quite recently. As a fully paid-up Guardian reading liberal I've was in two minds about whether it's ethical to support burlesque, what with the sticky issues of empowerment and exploitation. But it made my head hurt and I get enough of that at work at the moment, so instead I just went.

And I'm glad I did. It was a little disconcerting to walk into a speakeasy in broad daylight, but after the first glass of bubbly I'd forgotten the time of day. The crowd was mainly glammed up girls with the occasional couple out perhaps, to buy a pair of the nipple tassles offered by the 1940s style usherettes. Not really my thing but they seemed to be selling well.

My favourite act were the Gateaux Vivants (above pics), subverting the tradition of 19th century tableau vivants who posed nude in elaborate classical scenarios in order to sneak a little nudity past the censorship laws. Oh, but reinvented here with strategically placed cakes of course.

In between curvaceous ladies (and the occasional embittered gay comic) strutting the stage, we were served some perfectly serviceable sandwiches, delicious scones hot from the oven, and frankly the smallest fancy cakes I've ever seen. Maybe it was the booze or the unusual atmosphere but we got a fit of the giggles when we saw how tiddly they were. Tasty though.

Still, I'd recommend Afternoon Tease for the tongue in cheek atmosphere and the low-lit sneaky feel of it all...but consider asking the cabbie to stop for some chips on the way home.

Tea for two

 

What's better than getting a new job? Why getting a new job and being treated to a celebratory afternoon tea, that's what!  This was the perfect end to a wonderful, unexpected week so my thoughts on Le Chandelier may not be entirely impartial.

Le Chandelier is a traditional tea salon on Lordship Lane in East Dulwich, offering teas plus dainty cakes, pastries and the occasional savoury morsel. I've been in before and eaten a modest portion of sweet nothing with a cuppa, but this was a celebration so we went for the full Afternoon Tea; scones with lovely homemade strawberry jam and clotted cream, a selection of suitably crustless sandwiches and assorted pastries and cakes.

There is a staggering range of teas including black, green, yellow and white to fruit, herb and floral infusions and some very, very pretty flowering teas which unfurl seductively in the pot before you. I tried the fantastically named Jing Darjeeling Second Flush Supreme and the Vanilla Black Tea, both of which were utterly delicious.

I left feeling well refreshed and rather pampered, though rather envious of their covetable vintage china collection. Le Chandelier is a real oasis of calm and tranquility and perfect for a weekend treat - just don't ask for PG Tips.

---
Le Chandelier
161 Lordship Lane
London, SE22 8HX

Opening Hours ~
Tuesday to Thursday 9.30am - 6pm
Friday and Saturday 9.30am - 11pm
Sunday 10am - 6pm

Bellenden Deli-ght

 [bottom two images: Space Group of Architects Ltd]

Apologies for the silence...
I've been exceptionally busy finding out I have a new job - ergo, new wardrobe, new outlook, and no time! From next month I will be joining the illustrious but vaguely geeky crowd at the British Museum in working on a rather large project until 2013. It's an amazing opportunity and one I intend to embrace fully!  To ease back into the old routine it seems apt to write about one of the places I have been lazing in over the last few days as I ponder my future - an ace new hangout in Peckham.

Anderson & Co. is a spanking new cafe and deli on Bellenden Road, officially the 'nice' bit of Peckham. While I admit that while most of the area has a (possibly deserved) reputation for being a little rough around the edges, the Bellenden stretch has been determinedly sandpapering off the edges to present a more palatable face to the world.

The cafe inhabits the previous site of an organic, fair trade shop which never looked hugely enticing so I never ventured in. Lazy I know but hey. It slots in nicely beside posh-choc purveyors Melange, new gastropub The Victoria Inn, and the ultimate sign of gentrification, the sweet dog-grooming parlour. Oh, and those phallic bollards by Brit artist Antony Gormley.

This latest addition seems to be an instant hit; in my totally unscientific analysis (I passed twice on the bus) it was full both times.

The daily-changing menu serves basic, hearty fare like sandwiches, salads and soups, or deli platters made with their lush range of cheeses and cold meats.  I had a well made and intensely flavoured flat white coffee (made with Square Mile beans) but may have to try the cakes or savoury veggie tarts next time, they looked delicious! Everything is reasonably priced and the staff are genuinely friendly and welcoming. Overall it looks set to be a roaring success and my new fave local.
--
Anderson & Co.
139 Bellenden Road
London, SE15
tel: 020 7459 7078

Currently open 9-5pm, but soon moving to 8-8pm for those 'route to work' coffees

A billion Bill's please

Finally! My most favourite home-town caff has opened a branch in London, and in a great spot: St Martin's Courtyard just off Long Acre in Covent Garden, a road which is shop rich but cafe poor.

Bill's is a bit of an institution in Brighton for it's huge plates of colourful Aussie-style food. A typical lunch time meal might include a goat's cheese tartlet with herb leaf and tomato/basil salad, or a couscous and feta salad with spelt. Everything tastes fresh and somehow rather life affirming, as if every bite is taking your digestive system to a happier place (in a good way- there are no wholegrain hair shirts on the menu here).

The food is carefully presented throughout but I'd recommend leaving room for one of the showstopping cakes on offer, studded with flowers or draped theatrically with fruit. The attached deli stocks a range of beautifully displayed fruit, vegetables and groceries which act as a sort of staging ground for the orgy of consumption in the cafe.

I used to live around the corner from the Brighton store and buy the more affordable fruit and vegetables on my twice-weekly dash home from the swimming pool. The staff were universally sweet and friendly but must have thought I had some terribly scalp condition as my hair was always slicked back with deep conditioner. Needless to say I will be making more of an effort for my first visit to the London branch!

The ginger fox...speaks!

There are lots of things I miss about living in Brighton but none more than the wonderful Ginger Fox restaurant.  I have some good memories of roaming around the Sussex countryside and ending up at their door ravenous and cranky, only to be fed delicious modern British food that made the world seem a nicer place again.

They're a good option for any fellow pescatarian/veggies out there - the current menu has 4 meat dishes, 2 fish and 2 vegetarian (one of which looks vegan), the kind of balance I like to see!

Anyway, I've only just heard about head chef Ben Mckellar's blog which promises to have delicious recipes from the restaurant like Salt Cod Croquettes with Wild Garlic and Aioli. Until I can plan my next visit I'm enjoying eating vicariously through the blog. Well, if the mountain won't come to Mohammed...

Coffee crush

I've had a bit of a crush on Monmouth Coffee for a while now.

The Borough Market cafe exudes that that warm, buzzy feeling that you only get when people have joined together in a caffeine-fuelled moment of deep satisfaction.  One my occasional pleasures is to step out from the maelstrom that is the food market on a Saturday and, if I'm lucky, find a seat near the window to watch the circus go by.

The coffee is uniformly fantastic and they leave out a vast, stylish sandcastle of soft brown sugar which I take great pleasure in attacking with a spoon (or as I like to think of it, a tiny spade). 

Coffee can be a bit of an ethical minefield so it's reassuring that the company is very involved with production and they take considerable pride in having a relationship with their growers and exporters.  The staff really seem to appreciate the sourcing, and are truly knowledgable about all the options on offer, but frankly, I'm a girl of habit and I always get a latte. 

So if you want a cup of sustainable, fair and equal trade coffee in a warm, welcoming environment, then look no further.  Just don't take my seat.

Farm:shop

An oddity that I pass on my way to work; a derelict shop in Dalston that is being converted into an arts venue / indoor farm / restaurant venture.

They're promising a rooftop chicken coop and mushroom farm by next Spring, with every other available inch used to grow something, anything. I'm curious to know what a mini 'aquaponic' fish farm is..?

It's open for a nosy look-see until planting starts in September. Great if you need inspiration for your own urban jungle or for advice on how to breed trout in a windowbox.

http://farmlondon.weebly.com/index.html

A little slice of wagashi heaven

Oh sweet girly delight! The Minamoto Kitchoan Company is a tiny jewel nestled amidst the hustle bustle of Piccadilly. They only sell one thing - wagashi, the Japanese confectionary that comes in all manner of shapes and flavours, but every one a miniature work of art. This is the kind of food that you almost hate to eat - it's so beautiful that it seems a crime.

The gorgeous little fish above are called chogonosekkuka, a vegetarian jelly covered kumquat, all dressed up in a frou frou fish outfit. I dare you to resist!

I scream, you scream

Hooray! Ice cream season is here! It felt fitting to celebrate a warm Monday evening with frankly the best ice cream I've had in years.

Gelupo, on Archer Street in Soho, does the kind of ice cream that makes you go weak at the knees; smooth, creamy and bursting with natural flavour. I tried a scoop each of the pistachio and bonet (rum, amaretti, coffee, chocolate), and both were fantastic. The flavours are true and clear, and not overly sweet.

In addition to a dozen unusual ice cream flavours (which the very friendly staff are eager for you to test) there are sorbets and granitas. The burnt almond granita had great flavour.

The savoury food choice is limited, but when they do ice cream this well, who needs it?

I ❤ Wilton's

Hackney is my second neighbourhood now thanks to a new job, and my foot was barely in the door before I'd scoped out the local cafe talent.

The front runner by a country mile so far is Wilton's cafe on Wilton Way. An achingly cool mishmash of vintage and modern style (put together by designers Dog & Wardrobe), it's usually filled with local hipsters settling in for a perfectly made coffee or something from the small but perfectly formed menu.

For veggie/pescatarians like myself, I'd recommend the avocado on toasted sourdough bread - a great example of something simple made wonderful through the use of good, fresh ingredients. They also have great taste in music and show an eclectic array of local artist's work on the wall. Go before the 26th September and you can also drop into Keep Me Posted next door, an exhibition curated by White Cube director Julia Royse.